Lesson 16: Still Life and Macro Photography
Still life and macro photography are the quiet genres: instead of chasing the world, you bring the world to you. Still life is the arrangement of ordinary objects — fruit, books, tools, flowers — into a photograph; macro is the photography of very small things at very close range. Both are ideal for learning, because nothing moves, the light is under your control, and you can repeat the shot until it is right.
Still life begins with the arrangement. Choose a few objects that belong together, arrange them with space between them, and light them from the side — a window is the classic still-life light — so that shape and texture appear. A plain background, a table near a window, and a tripod are all you need to begin. The genre has a long history in painting, and the same lessons apply: simplicity, balance, and attention to the edges of the frame.
Macro: A World at 1:1
Macro photography means photographing a subject so that its image on the sensor is life-size or larger — a magnification of 1:1 or more. A dedicated macro lens, typically 90 mm to 105 mm, focuses far closer than an ordinary lens and is designed to stay sharp at that distance. At 1:1, a bee fills the frame, a water drop becomes a lens, and the veins of a leaf become a landscape. The cost is depth of field: at macro distances it can be a millimetre or less, so only a sliver of the subject is sharp.
That shallow depth of field is macro's central challenge. The solutions are to use a narrow aperture such as f/11 or f/16, to focus precisely on the most important part — usually the insect's eye or the centre of the flower — and to keep the sensor parallel to the subject so more of it falls in the plane of focus. Some photographers combine many frames taken at slightly different focus distances into one fully sharp image, a technique called focus stacking.
Light, Stability, Patience
Macro work needs light and stability. A small flash with a diffuser softens the light and freezes the tiny movements of a living subject; a tripod holds the camera still at the slow shutter speeds a narrow aperture demands. Insects are best photographed in the cool of the morning, when they move slowly. And the same patience that serves the still-life photographer serves here: the difference between a good macro photograph and a great one is usually the extra ten minutes spent on focus and light.
Key Terms
- Still life
- Photography of arranged inanimate objects, such as fruit, books or flowers.
- Macro photography
- Close-up photography at 1:1 magnification or greater, where the subject appears life-size on the sensor.
- Magnification
- The ratio of the subject's size on the sensor to its real size; 1:1 is life-size.
- Focus stacking
- Combining several frames taken at different focus distances into one fully sharp image.
- Diffuser
- A material that softens and spreads light, reducing harsh shadows.
- Macro lens
- A lens designed to focus very close and stay sharp at high magnification, typically 90 mm to 105 mm.
Discussion Questions
- Why is depth of field so shallow in macro photography, and what can you do about it?
- Why is a window a good light source for still life?
- What is focus stacking, and when would you need it?
🎬 Watch & Learn
- Complete Macro Photography Tutorial for Beginners — Photography Life. Spencer Cox, an award-winning macro photographer, explains macro equipment, settings, depth of field and focusing from start to finish.
Practice Questions
- What does 1:1 magnification mean?
Answer: The subject's image on the sensor is the same size as the subject in real life. - What is the main focusing challenge in macro photography?
Answer: Depth of field can be a millimetre or less, so only a sliver of the subject is sharp. - Name three ways to deal with shallow depth of field in macro work.
Answer: Use a narrow aperture such as f/11 or f/16; focus precisely on the most important part; keep the sensor parallel to the subject; or use focus stacking. - What is focus stacking?
Answer: Combining several frames taken at slightly different focus distances into one fully sharp image. - Why photograph insects in the cool of the morning?
Answer: They move slowly when cool, making them easier to photograph.